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Brain Fооd

By
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In Food
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On May 1, 2017

Good morning. We try to stay buoyant here at Cooking. Food is our one true thing, the kitchen our refuge. (That’s me in the corner with the metal colander on my head, waiting for things to get better while the pasta finishes boiling.)

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Dufresne takes the foil-wrapped sandwich with him down 23rd Street, walking at a rapid clip. He’s dressed more like a hiker than a world-renowned chef revered for artfully plated, scientifically forward food, including delicacies like fried mayonnaise and savory everything-bagel ice cream. The iconic dishes he served at his now-shuttered restaurant WD-50 influenced an entire generation of molecular gastronomists. But on this day, he’s preparing for the opening of Du’s Donuts & Coffee, a much more casual joint situated at the William Vale Hotel in Williamsburg. (The space is now open.)

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